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Monica Shah, creative lead of JADE shares Rasha Thadani and Diana Penty’s costume journey and her experience working with celebrity stylist Akshay Tyagi and director Abhishek Kapoor.
Fashion designer Monica Shah and (right) Rasha Thadani in Uyi Amma song
Couture label JADE by Monica and Karishma collaborated as the official costume partner for the cinematic masterpiece Azaad. Set against the backdrop of pre-independence India, Azaad narrates a tale of identity, resilience, and transformation. The film stars Rasha Thadani and Diana Penty, whose compelling journeys were brought to life through JADE’s impeccable designs.
From Rasha’s red lehenga in the popular song, Uyi Amma to Diana’s soft yet structured silhouettes inspired by 1920s fashion, the costumes became visual extensions of their identities, rooted in tradition yet shaped by the evolving world around them.
Monica Shah, creative lead of JADE takes News18 through the characters’ Janaki and Kesar’s costume journey, working with celebrity stylist Akshay Tyagi and film director Abhishek Kapoor and why working with Rasha Thadani was an absolute pleasure.
How was the experience working with Raveena Tandon’s daughter, Rasha Thadani?
Working with Rasha was an absolute pleasure. She is not just incredibly talented but also brings such grace and presence to every look. Seeing her wear the costumes and completely embody the characters was such a humbling experience for me as a designer. What made it even more special was how beautifully she carried the outfits. Rasha looked stunning, of course, but what mattered most was how comfortable she felt in them. It was so rewarding to see how the little details we worked on resonated with her and added to her portrayal.
Take us through the costume designed for Rasha in the song Uyi Amma.
Rasha’s costume in Uyi Amma was all about capturing the ethereal and magical feel of the moment. We drew inspiration from the flowing movement of 80s apsara clothing—graceful yet bold—which would allow the garment to dance with every step. To bring it alive in the dark, we incorporated intricate mirror work, carefully crafted to catch and reflect the light. I wanted to add tassels to the outfit as an element of fluidity, that could enhance the flow of the outfit as she moved. Every detail we added was intentional and was meant to create a visual spectacle that complemented the effervescent nature of the song.
Every costume adds to the film’s character’s personality. How challenging was it to translate the vision of contemporary stars like Diana Penty and Rasha Thadani?
Translating the vision for Diana and Rasha required balancing their modern charisma with authentic cultural elements. My vision was to ensure the designs reflected their characters’ arcs and emotional journeys. For Rasha’s character, Janaki, I aimed to blend India’s heritage with contemporary relevance, while Diana’s transformation from a simple village girl to a member of an aristocratic family demanded outfits that evolved with her journey.
While costume designing shapes the character, how much does styling the ensemble add to the overall look?
I am a true believer that styling any ensemble enhances the overall look by adding layers of detail and authenticity. It’s the fine-tuning—accessories, textures, and how pieces are worn—that brings the character’s personality to life and seamlessly integrates them into the narrative world. Akshay’s (Tyagi) creative direction truly brought the actors’ performances to life. His creative vision has guided me at every step, ensuring that the costumes not only reflected the characters but also told a larger story. What stood out for me was his genuine dedication to bringing the actors’ performances to the forefront—his thoughtful direction not only helped shape their journeys but made each outfit feel meaningful and purposeful. As Akshay has rightly said, Azaad is an epic saga, and his thoughtful guidance helped shape every aspect of the storytelling.
Designing costumes for epic films demands research to stay true to the film’s characters. What was your source of inspiration that helped with the moodboard that translated into the costumes?
To design for a period drama is like piecing together fragments of history to create a living, breathing narrative. My inspiration stemmed from an exploration of textures, traditions, and storytelling elements that could bring the characters to life.
For Janaki’s British-inspired looks, I drew from the tailored elegance of vintage jackets I discovered at a flea market in Paris. These pieces carried a quiet sophistication—sharp lines softened by time—which felt symbolic of Janaki’s place between two worlds. They became the backbone of her aristocratic wardrobe, blending colonial influences with subtle nods to her Indian heritage. On the other hand, her connection to her roots was captured through the intricate mirror work of Kutch, which can be seen in the song Ui Amma.
I wanted to pose a juxtaposition of colonial refinement and Indian authenticity, to create a wardrobe that wasn’t just clothing but an extension of her character’s internal struggle, her resilience, and her evolving sense of self.
For Diana’s character [Kesar], I leaned into Western influences with soft yet structured silhouettes inspired by 1920s flapper fashion where lace was heavily embroidered on dresses and veils. I wanted to incorporate lightweight chiffons with delicate embroidery that captured her poise and added a touch of colonial aristocracy. I would term it as the interplay of Indian and Western textiles that helped me convey her duality as a woman caught between two worlds.
An outfit that took a lot of man hours to create from the 12-15 costumes you designed?
All the outfits we designed for Azaad were thoughtfully handcrafted, which inherently required a significant amount of time and effort. Among them, the 100-kali lehenga with intricate block prints was a labor of dedication and the most time-intensive outfit we crafted, taking 34 man-hours. We designed this lehenga to embody authenticity while showcasing the regal elegance of Janaki’s character. Our karigars individually block-printed each Kali (panel) with motifs that reflected Janaki’s aristocratic heritage, creating her visual narrative steeped in tradition.
How was it working with director Abhishek Kapoor?
Collaborating with Gattu [Abhishek Kapoor] was such an unforgettable experience. From the very first moment, his clear and thoughtful vision for the film shaped every detail. Gattu has a unique way of bringing out the emotional depth in each scene, guiding every part of the process with precision and care. I vividly remember the first time he shared the story—his deep understanding allowed me to truly connect between the characters’ journeys and the visual elements. It made the costumes feel like an extension of their emotions, reflecting their growth and struggles in such a powerful way. Working alongside Gattu, and with Akshay’s [Tyagi] creative approach, created a foundation where the costumes became more than just fabric—they became a visual language that truly brought the narrative to life.
Celebrating Indian heritage in films through fashion and costumes, what’s your take on this?
Celebrating Indian heritage through fashion and costumes is something that has always been deeply personal for me. It’s beyond just aesthetics—it’s about honoring our rich cultural roots and weaving tradition into modern storytelling. Every costume I design serves as a bridge between the past and present, bringing historical elements to life while making them suitable for today’s narratives. For me, it’s about blending authenticity with creativity, ensuring that each piece tells a story and reflects the diverse, vibrant heritage of India.
A look from the film that will always remain special.
One of my favorite memories from the sets of Azaad was the first time I saw Rasha in the red lehenga we had designed for her in Uyi Amma. Watching her try it on for the first time was surreal—like a reel of all our discussions and the countless iterations we worked on flashing before my eyes. Rasha had specifically requested red, her favorite colour, and we had poured so much heart into perfecting every detail to make it just right for her. Seeing her light up in that moment and on-screen is unforgettable.
Now, watching Uyi Amma’s success spread all over the internet and seeing so many DIY recreations of that outfit truly fills me with pride. It’s such a joy to know that something we created has resonated with so many people. It reminds me of the magic we brought to life together and how I had the privilege of contributing to this beautiful journey.